Benvenuto in Italia!
- Sheena Carchedi
- Jun 26, 2023
- 3 min read
Stop #3 on our 6-week Eurotrip was none other than Italy! It's been an entire decade (literally) since we stepped foot in Italy but the moment we arrived, we felt right at home. Everything about Italy is so welcoming - the food, the coffee, the vino, the locals...for me, there is nothing quite like it.
On previous trips, we would primarily stay in small towns or villages, avoiding the tourist trap cities, however, on this trip we opted to use Siena as our home base and take day trips to some of our favorites. Siena is one of my absolute favorite places on Earth. The streets are lined with endless shopping, cafes and eateries, fresh markets, gelaterias, and souvenir shops - anything and everything you can possibly imagine. Siena is known for its cuisine, art, medieval architecture, and of course the Palio. We were lucky enough to attend the Il Palio race in July 2013 (see pics below); since then, we've been itching to return.
Siena is made up of 17 districts, or contrade, which come together twice a year on July 2 and August 16 to compete against each other in the Palio di Siena (horse race). The Palio, which dates back to 1633, is run in the center of the iconic Piazza del Campo. Jockeys ride their horses bareback and must complete three laps around the piazza before declaring a winner. Every Sunday leading up to the race, each contrada carries a procession through the streets of Siena toward the piazza. Locals adorn a scarf of their contrade's flag around their necks, drummers march to the beat of their drums, and flag bearers perform flag waving in unison, pausing at the oratories of each contrada to sing "Te Duem", a song dedicated to the Virgin. On the afternoon of the Palio race, the Corteo Storico takes place in the piazza: a historical costume parade, formally choreographed that commemorates the greatness of the Republic of Siena. The parade consists of nearly 700 participants including 13 representatives from each contrada:
Aquila (Eagle) - traditionally, its residents were notaries
Bruco (Caterpillar) - involved in silk trade
Chiocciola (Snail) - terracotta makers
Civetta (Little Owl) - shoemakers
Drago (Dragon) - bankers
Giraffa (Giraffe) - painters
Istrice (Crested Porcupine) - blacksmiths
Leocorno (Unicorn) - goldsmiths
Lupa (She-Wolf) - bakers
Nicchio (Seashell) - potters
Oca (Goose) - dye makers
Onda (Wave) - carpenters
Pantera (Panther) - grocers, chemists, and steamers
Selva (Forest) - weavers and archers
Tartuca (Tortoise) - sculptors
Torre (Tower) - wool combers
Valdimontone (Valley of the Ram) - tailors
The entire race lasts no more than 90 seconds but draws crowds upwards of 40,000 people! Spectators gather not only in the middle of the piazza but also on rooftops, hanging out of windows, and on temporary bleachers assembled days before the race. The Palio is the only horse race in the world where a horse can still win the race without its jockey, which has only happened twice in the history of the race. For residents of Siena, the importance of this race is equivalent to, if not bigger than, Superbowl Sunday for Americans. It is an ongoing rivalry filled with passion and pride, alliances and animosity.
If you ever get a chance to visit Siena, I highly recommend planning a trip end of June/early July so that you can witness Siena, at least once, at its most magical state.
Stay tuned for more on our day trips throughout Tuscany! Ciao!



































































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